Archive for the ‘articles’ Category

Hydretain – Cuts Watering By 50%

Saturday, February 28th, 2015

In order to understand how Hydretain Works, you must first understand the mechanism of drought. Simply put, when water is applied through rainfall or irrigation, a huge percentage is never utilized by the plant. This is due primarily to the forces of gravity pulling moisture back to the aquifer and evaporation pulling moisture into the atmosphere. While we can do little about gravity, we can prevent most of the evaporative loss.

When there is adequate liquid water in the soil, Hydretain essentially lies dormant and serves no real purpose. It is when this liquid water is depleted and only water vapor remains in the soil matrix that Hydretain’s benefits can be seen. Plants cannot use vapor, so Hydretain was engineered to capture it and collect it back into minute liquid droplets that sustain plants between waterings.

Baby Chicks Arrive March 19

Wednesday, February 25th, 2015

chickdaysgraphicpurina-300x204.jpg

Baby chicks arrive at J&N Feed and Seed on Thursday, March 19th!

All baby chicks are pullets, 90% accuracy! We’ll have the following chick types:

  • Rhode Island Reds
  • Buff Orphingtons
  • Americanas

We will also be getting Guineas.

Remember, we have everything you need for your new flock including poultry feed, feeders, waterers, heat lamps, fencing and more!

Tips to Prepare Your Chicken Coop

Sunday, February 22nd, 2015

ExtremeCapeCodChickenCoopTips To Prepare Your Chicken Coop

We are in the full swing of chick season. You might have even purchased your baby chicks and they grow fast. When your baby chicks are ready to leave your brooder, make sure you have your coop ready to go.Most chicks can be transferred to their coops as early as 4-5 weeks of age. If you have already purchased your baby chicks, it is imperative that your coop is ready to go as soon as possible. You will be shocked at how fast they feather and grow, and take up space! Here are some tips to ensure your chicken coop is adequately prepared:

  • Be predator-proof, not just from the sides, but from above and below as well. Predators that would love chicken wings for dinner include but are not limited to raccoons, foxes, wolves, coyotes and hawks.
  • Be secure from nasty rodents (yes, rats!) that will be attracted to the feed and droppings. Rodents are burrowing creatures, so you need to block them from slipping into the coop from below. If you coop doesn’t have a floor, you need to bury small-mesh fencing down into the ground about 12″ all around the coop.
  • Be breezy enough to prevent respiratory diseases, to which chickens are especially prone, but not so drafty during winter that they freeze their tushes off. Chickens can withstand the cold so long as it’s not drafty!
  • Be easy to clean so bugs and bacteria don’t fester.
  • Provide “roosting poles” for your girls to sleep on (2″ wide; rounded edges; allot 5-10″ of space per bird side to side and 10″ between poles if more than one is necessary; plus ladder-like grading so the pole furthest away is several inches higher than the closest).
  • Encourage egg-laying with 1 nest box for every four or five chickens. Nest boxes should be raised off the ground at least a few inches, but lower than the lowest roosting pole. They should also be dark and “out of the way” to cater to the hen’s instinct to lay her eggs in a safe, place.
  • Be roomy: at least 4 square feet per bird if birds are able to roam freely during the day, and at least 10 square feet per bird if they are permanently confined.
  • Accommodate a feeder and waterer, which should hang 6-8″ off the ground.
  • Include a removable “droppings tray” under roosting poles for capture and easy disposal of droppings. (Or should we say for easy access to your lawn fertilizer?)
  • Similar to the coop, the sides of the attached chicken run, if you have one, should be buried 12″ into the soil to keep predators and rodents from digging their way in. Once again, we recommend chicken wire fencing or half-inch hardware cloth. It’s also our strong recommendation that you secure the top of the run with aviary netting or deer netting. This will keep wild birds (which can carry communicable diseases) out and provide further defense against sly predators.

Come see us and pick up everything you need from waterers, bulbs, heat lamps and more.
Source: My Pet Chicken

 

 

Spring Weeds & Pre-emergent

Sunday, February 1st, 2015

henbitgoodRegardless of what the ground hog says, spring is right around the corner.  And so are the weeds.  It’s time to start thinking about pre-emergent for your yard. You have about a 6 week window to apply pre-emergents, from the first of February to the middle of March.  There are 3 factors that will determine when a seed will germinate, soil temperature, moisture and sunlight. The pre-emergent must be applied and active BEFORE that magic moment of germination occurs.

The all-natural pre-emergent is Corn Gluten Meal. It is available in both granulated and powder form and it is applied at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Synthetic pre-emergents are Dimension for the grassy weeds and Gallery for the broadleaf weeds. The key to success with these products is to apply the correct amount to your lawn.  Follow the label directions and know the square footage of your lawn.

Come see us for all your garden and lawn care needs.

Dental Care Tips for Your Pet

Friday, January 30th, 2015

DogWithToothbrushChew on this…did you know that 8 out of every 10 pets over the age of three suffers from gum (periodontal) disease?  Proper prevention and dental treatment is necessary, without it your pets can suffer from tooth decay, bleeding gums, tooth loss, and even internal organ damage.

February is National Pet Care Dental Month.  Take the time to know the signs of oral disease in pets:

  • Bad breath.  Your pets breath will not smell great, but persistent bad breath is a sign that your pet needs a dental visit.
  • Red, bleeding, swollen, or receding gums
  • Yellow-brown plaque or tartar on your pets teeth
  • Loose, infected for missing teeth

What can you do to prevent oral disease?

  • Schedule annual wellness visits to your veterinarian, including dental visits and cleaning.
  • If you groom your pet monthly, see if your groomer offers teeth cleanings!  Many of them offer this service.
  • Brush your pets teeth regularly!  Pick up pet tooth brushes and tooth paste at your local pet store.
  • Feed pet food that is specifically designed and formatted to for tartar control and plaque buildup.
    • Choose kibble over wet pet food.  Kibble is better for their teeth
    • Avoid table scraps and human food.  Often these foods get stuck in your pets teeth and gums

Keeping your pet healthy includes their teeth!  Start you pet dental plan this month!

 

Feeding Chickens For Optimum Egg Production

Friday, July 18th, 2014

Layena_PackagesAt about four and a half months, you’re probably anxiously awaiting the “fruits of your labors”, fresh eggs! Now is the time to introduce your laying pullets to Purina Layena or Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 to insure that they receive the best nutrition to support egg production. Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 has added flaxseed, which helps your chickens to produce with enhanced levels of Omega-3. Each egg will contain 300 percent more Omega-3, an essential fatty acid!

  • Gradually transition your laying pullets over to Purina Layena or Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 over a 7- to 10-day period.
  • Continue to provide birds with a maximum of 17 to 18 hours of light per day to ensure optimum egg production.
  • Purina Layena Plus Omega-3 can be purchased as a pellet, and Purina Layena can be purchased as a pellet or crumble. Both forms contain high quality grains with added vitamins and minerals for a complete and balanced diet. In pelleted form, it is just that, a pellet.  Crumbles are simply pellets that are broken apart into smaller bits, which make it easier to eat.
  • Optimum egg production is achieved when layers are maintained in temperatures between 65°F and 85°F.  As temperatures increase above this, egg size and production may decrease. Keep your birds cool and comfortable so you will get the best return on your investment!

Source: Purina Poultry

Is My Pet Overweight?

Tuesday, May 27th, 2014

OverweighPetsPostWe hear plenty in the news about the issue of obesity in America. But did you know that 55% of dogs and cats are overweight?

Risks
A pet weighing more than 10-20% of its optimal weight is at risk for:

  • High blood pressure
  • Ligament injury
  • Heart and respiratory disease
  • Increased risk of developing cancers of the mouth, skin, bones and liver
  • Type II Diabetes
  • Osteoarthritis
  • Kidney disease

Ultimately, overweight pets can have a decreased life expectancy of 2.5 years, which is equivalent to 38 human years!

Is my pet overweight?
Signs that your pet has packed on a few too many pounds:

  • Difficult to feel ribs under fat
  • Sagging stomach – you can grab a handful of fat
  • Broad, flat back and now waist

How much should my pet weigh? Here are some general guidelines for popular breeds:

  • German Shepherd: 75-95lbs
  • Labrador Retriever: 65-80lbs
  • Beagle: 18-30lbs
  • Yorkshire Terrier: 7lbs or less
  • Maine Coon Cat: 10-25lbs
  • Persian Cat: 7-12lbs
  • Domestic Breed Cat: 8-10lbs

Feeding
Many pets get 2 times the food they need, plus treats throughout the day. Follow these daily caloric needs for best portion control:

  • 10lb dog: 200-275 calories or one bowl of food and one treat per day
  • 10lb cat: 180-200 calories or one bowl of food and one treat per day
  • 20lb dog: 325-400 calories or one bowl of food and two treats per day
  • 50lb dog: 700-900 calories or two bowls of food and four treats per day

Exercise

We all need exercise on a daily basis and our pets are no different. Include you pet in your exercise routine and you’ll both be healthier for it!

For more information on healthy weight loss tips for your pet, visit http://www.petobesityprevention.com

Equine Health: Deworming Horses

Thursday, May 8th, 2014

dewormingDeworming treatments are a regular component of horse health maintenance, but many horse owners may not understand the best schedule for their horse. While deworming regimens vary by region, there are some ground rules for owners to follow. We recommend working closely with your equine veterinarian on a proper deworming schedule.

Dr. Thomas Craig, professor at Texas A&M University College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences (CVM), who specializes in epidemiology and the control of internal parasites in equines and grazing animals, offered some insight into deworming. Craig explained that in a given population of horses, about 20 percent will have 80 percent of the total internal parasites of the herd.

Another basic guideline is that deworming should be based on the age of the horse. There is a drastic difference in the deworming needs of a foal (less than a year) and an adult horse.

“What’s effective in adults may not be effective in foals,” Craig said.

Craig suggested deworming foals for the first time at two months of age. Parascaris equorum are of particular concern at this age.

“I recommend using fenbendazole, a broad spectrum benzimidazole anthelmintic, such as Safe-Guard, or a pyrantel dewormer such as Strongid for foals two months old,” Craig said.

As the foal matures, it is recommended that the same treatment be used at four and six months of age. When the foal reaches a year old, Craig suggested using an ivermectin or moxidectin treatment for deworming.

When worming adult horses (older than one year), the approach changes considerably. The most dangerous parasitic threat to horses are small strongyles, which are present in most horses. Craig recommended testing mature horses through fecal samples to determine the number and types of parasitic eggs in the horse’s digestive system.

“After strongyles, the rest of parasitic control is really just a numbers game,” Craig said. “In older horses, you really only need to deworm horses with high numbers of parasites. Adult horses with less than a few hundred eggs per gram can be relatively left alone.”

Craig suggested treating all horses during the winter with ivermectin to combat bot fly larvae “A good reminder, is to treat your horse with ivermectin around Christmas time,” Craig said. “They often acquire bot larvae during the fall months, so winter is really the best time to deworm with ivermectin.

Aside from bot fly larvae, other, less common parasites are pinworms and tapeworms. Horses with pinworms are typically kept in stalls. One of the most common signs of pinworm infected horses is an itchy tail. Craig suggested treating an infected horse with a fenbendazole dewormer once a month, for three months along with a good shampoo of the horse’s rear end.

“The pinworm eggs can only survive about 30 days, so I recommend vacating the stall for a month until the eggs die on their own,” Craig added. “There is no product to kill the eggs, but allowing them to die on their own can be helpful in preventing re-infection”

Tapeworms can cause mild colic in horses because they often attach to the valve between the small and large intestine. Craig recommended deworming in the fall (September, October, or November) with a dewormer containing praziquantel or a double dose of pyrantel.

These recommendations are all suggested guidelines for parasite management in horses. Craig recommended following these guidelines, particularly in the Texas region. Altering deworming according to your horse’s age and parasite testing results are the two most important guidelines and can help horse owners develop an effective and sustainable parasite program, Craig said.

 

Source: College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences, Texas A&M University

Feeding Chickens Nearing Maturity

Thursday, May 8th, 2014

SunfreshScratchGrainsAs you reach the third month, your chicks are continuing to grow, maturing weekly and becoming quite independent.  They become sexually mature between 4 and 6 months of age and with proper care and excellent nutrition the first egg is laid soon!

  • You should still be feeding Purina Start & Grow Sunfresh Recipe to your birds. A layer diet should not be fed until 18 weeks of age because of the high calcium levels which are inappropriate for younger birds. Be sure to gradually transition the birds from the starter feed to the layer feed over 7 to 10 days.
  • Remember to always provide fresh water. Water is essential for healthy chickens, not to mention future egg production. As the weather gets warmer, they will drink more water so make sure they have access to a never-ending supply!
  • Purina Scratch Grains Sunfresh Grains can be introduced to your flock after 12 weeks of age. This natural, all grain supplement should be fed along with a complete and balanced diet and should not make up more than 5-10 percent of the total daily intake.
  • If you feed Purina Scratch Grains Sunfresh Grains, your birds should also have access to “grit.” Grit is made up of small insoluble granite particles, which assist in digestion of feed by helping to grind it up in the gizzard. Feed 1 pound per 100 birds, twice per week either mixed with other feed or free choice.
  • Remember to provide your pullets with 17-18 hours of light per day starting at 16 weeks of age.

Source: Purina Poultry

Beware of GI Disease In Foals

Thursday, May 1st, 2014

NewFoals2The first few weeks of a foal’s life can be the highest risk period in the life of a horse.  There are several gastrointestinal disorders that can quickly drain the health of your foal and cause failure to thrive.  Here’s a look at some of the more common GI issues to be aware of in foals.

Clostridial Enterocolitis

This is a bacterial infection that can affect foals from several days to three months of age. It is caused by a type of bacteria that produces toxins that damage the intestine.

 Symptoms:

  • Rapid onset with decreased nursing and depression.
  • Colic, diarrhea and possibly abdominal distension.

Diagnosis:

  • Your vet will look for clostridial bacteria and do further testing to confirm.

 Treatment:

  • Many foals require hospitalization with intravenous fluids and antibiotics. In some cases medication and monitoring at home is possible.

 Prognosis:

  • With early treatment to avoid dehydration and toxemia most foals should recover.

 

Rotavirus

The primary cause of viral diarrhea in foals is rotavirus. It is extremely contagious. It is caused by a viral organism shed in the feces, which can persist in the environment for up to nine months.

 Symptoms:

  • Malodorous diarrhea, which is profuse and often projectile in nature
  • Depression, lack of appetite, dehydration and fever

Diagnosis:

Your vet will identify the virus by testing fecal samples

Treatment:

Supportive with intravenous fluids to prevent or treat dehydration.

Prognosis:

Most foals will recover with early treatment  if not in a prolonged state of electrolyte imbalance or dehydration.

Prevention:

Disinfect stalls before foaling and quarantine new arrivals before introduction into the herd. Vaccinate broodmare during the eighth, ninth and tenth months of gestation.

The key to avoiding life threatening GI issues is early intervention. When a foal displays a lack of appetite, diarrhea, depression or lethargy you should seek prompt veterinary consultation. Because of the vulnerable stage of life in early foals waiting until tomorrow could be serious, even fatal.

Source: Lone Star Horse Report